Surf Spot

Surf Spot

I’ve surfed at just about every beach in Southern California! Went to Dana Hills highschool in Dana Point and would ditch class to go surf. It was about a 7 minute walk to Salt Creek or Strands beach.
I learned how to surf using long boards and guns which are big wave boards. The guns were really wide which made it easy to stand up. I started at Doheny beach right next to the harbor. This used to be one of the best surf spots in the world before they ruined it with a giant jetty. Now this surf spot has small waves which ride long and shallow water that makes it easy to learn how to stand up.
I’m currently in Idaho but will make it back to California in a year or two after I get out. Besides my kid I’ve never missed something so much! It’s crazy all the things I didn’t appreciate while I was out there. Things that don’t cost money like the beach or a simple hug from a loved one. I have a whole new outlook on how to live my life, can’t wait to start

Photo by Fernando muñoz on Unsplash

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